05.10.2007
Magic Machu Picchu!
Unless you approach Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail, all tourists going there MUST take the train from Cuzco or at least from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. Round trip, with only 30 kilometers each way, costs an incredible 57 USD per persons from Ollantaytambo in the backpacker train. The more comfortable Vistadome costs no less than 76 USD.
Perurail has a monopoly on the route and therefore can ask for whatever they want! There are additional cheap, local trains that cannot be used by tourists, but only Peruvians, which is fair enough. Although the segregation is rather strict, Hedwig, our host in Nasca and a Dutch citizen, could not travel together with her Peruvian husband when going to Machu Picchu.
Actually, there is a way to avoid the expensive train, but it involves taking two buses from Ollantaytambo and then a four hour trek to Aguas Calientes. It is really time consuming and only a few hard-core, penny pinching backpackers choose this way. Endless talks about opening up the railways to competitors and private investors have been going on for years without any result so far.
Giving the exorbitant price for the train ticket, the 40 USD entrance fee per person to Machu Picchu just seems in line, together with 12USD for the bus from Aguas Calients to the entrance of Machu Picchu, which makes it one dollar per km.
Since it was our choice to go there and spend this kind of money we do not consider it as scandalous as many other tourists, although in a country where a good meal in a local “Quinta” sells for 1 USD, it may leave you wonder.
The trip in the “Backpacker Train” is actually pleasant and offers a descent level of comfort and the part following the Urubamba River is very scenic. The Conquistadores followed this river when discovering and then conquering the area.
Of course we spent one night in Aguas Calientes, so that we would be able to take the first bus up to Machu Picchu and be there at sunrise, way before hundreds of people traveling with tours would arrive. We expected the worst of Aguas Calientes, having read the Lonely Planet and a few other travel reports.
Well, we did actually enjoy the city very much. Yes, it is a tourist zoo! Every few meters somebody is holding a menu in your face or alpaca knitting, but that is the game. We had excellent food for 10 - 15 soles at the Inti House and a huge room with all comforts at El Tumi was 20 USD, at least in the lower season. The latest promotion tool is a Happy Hour offering four drinks for the price of one. Needless to say we tried that too, which makes two Pisco Sour per person, just perfect!
We left with the first bus at 05.30 am so that we would be in Machu Picchu at precisely 06:00 when the gate opens and shortly before sunrise. Actually we went to the bus station at 05:10 am, because we knew it would not be just one bus going up at that time, but enough busses to take anyone waiting. We managed to be in the second one, looking back a quite a number of people waiting ...
