Working in hell - Life in the mines of Potosi (Part 2)

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Such a tour starts off a the miners market where we bought coca leaves, dynamite, 96% alcohol and soft drinks, the latter being the favorite gift considering the hard work in this temperature. Coca leaves serve as calorie intake and keep the miners from feeling tired and hungry. The alcohol is used as an offering to Pachamama and the Tio, but of course is also consumed, especially on Friday.

Every mine has a Tio, a devilish-looking creature that has to be kept content by offering coca leaves, alcohol, cigarettes. Otherwise he would bring harm upon the miners.

In order to visit the mine we chose Koala Tour, since their tour was the longest. We did not regret it. Before we set off, we were a bit shocked to find 18 people in the office, but we were assured that there would be three guides and everything would be fine. Still skeptical, we soon realized that there are so many mines that we will not step on each others toes and that these visits are also a positive experience for the miners, who take immense pride in their work, averaging 1.000 Bolivianos or 94 Euros a month, twice the minimum wage. They maybe lucky and strike a good vein, or make nothing.

Our guide Ronaldo was simply outstanding, he spoke slowly and clearly to the six people who chose to do the tour in Spanish and showed a great insight knowledge.

To take tourists down the mines is nothing new, it started about twenty years ago, but under different conditions - without helmets, one torch for a group and off they went. We do not know how they managed, because we constantly banged our heads against the rock. And the individual headlamps kept you from panicking if the group was a bit ahead.

Since 1997 Cerro Rico is an UNESCO World Heritage Site commemorating its tragic history. The dark side of this coin is that mining done on the outside is restricted.

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