Gallery New ZealandClick on one picture to view the whole gallery |
14.03.2008
What a terrible start!
Within minutes of our arrival in this country, a lot of things went very wrong, which consequently ended up in us dishing out 280 Euros due to our ignorance and thoughtlessness. Half of that money was taken by the Authorities of Biosecurity from Heidi, the other half by Air New Zealand. It was definitely not what you call a good start! Disaster number 1: we left Rarotonga on March 11th at 03:40 am and after a four hour flight, we arrived in Auckland. We had booked the onward flight to Christchurch for the same morning. What we did...[more] Category: New Zealand
15.03.2008
All kinds of surprises
Riding the bus from the airport into the centre of Christchurch, we had a sensation similar to the one we experienced entering Argentina coming from Bolivia. Then, it was as if someone had beamed us back to Europe or at least close to there. This time, we felt a similar irritation: we felt utterly displaced after arriving from the Pacific Islands. Everything was so Anglo-Saxon, the houses, the street signs, the food, the architecture! It was so suburban USA / Canada: the streets are lined with one-story residential buildings,...[more] Category: New Zealand
16.03.2008
Christchurch and around
In Christchurch, a wild mixture of what seems Anglo-Saxon suburbia and modern ugly concrete, we spent most of our two days there getting used to New Zealand, looking for a rental car and getting Heidi new glasses (for those who do not follow our stories too closely, they were in a bag that was stolen at Mendoza bus terminal). Most car rental companies advertise cheap rates but do not have those cars available for that price when we called them. Of course it was Gilles who finally found THE deal of the year: 21 NZ Dollars or 11.5...[more] Category: New Zealand
17.03.2008
Lakes of the Mackensie Country & Mount Cook
colour of Lake Tekapo, which together with barren hillside around create a strange landscape. This greenish colour remembered us so well of the lakes in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in South Patagonia. Because of the ongoing drought in the south of New Zealand, the landscape shows large patches that look parched. Although it was off season, the search for budget accommodation was nerve racking and finally brought us to the village of Twizel near Lake Pukaki. There, at the comfortable “High Country Holiday Lodge” we spent a few...[more] Category: New Zealand
18.03.2008
Very few penguins in once super rich Oamaru
Near Oamaru, we stopped at some clay cliffs, since they were mentioned in the Lonely Planet. Those were some impressive rocks formations, even though they surely would have gone unnoticed in southern Bolivia! The heydays of Oamaru were in the late 19th century, when gold was found in Otago. No money was spared to express that wealth. Today, some majestic buildings in the centre made of limestone bear witness of those golden times. Some buildings rather resemble Greek temples, which actually are now ordinary banks. Oamaru also hosts...[more] Category: New Zealand
19.03.2008
Dunedin & Otago
At this point we needed a boast in morale and St. Patrick’s Day was just the perfect occasion. Down the hill from our hostel in Dunedin was Murphy’s Pub. And this is where it all happened, on March 17th 2008: green beer, Irish music, dancing and … well, lots of drinking, of course! It was our real first night out in months and we truly enjoyed it, especially since it was so easy chatting up people in the pub. After this social event, we ventured out to explore Dunedin’s historic and cultural assets. Although we must have been in...[more] Category: New Zealand
20.03.2008
Budget Backpacker Hostels Association
In Dunedin, we finally decided to buy the BBH card, a very efficient and to us unique system for budget travellers. Many hostels in New Zealand are members of an association, but BBH is the biggest with over 370 hostels. You can join at any BBH, with the card for 45 NZ Dollars comes a little booklet that lists all the member hostels, with a short description, directions and a rating done by BBH members and a phone card worth 20 NZ Dollars. Anybody can stay at these hostels, but with a BBH card you get a discount of at least 3 NZ...[more] Category: New Zealand
21.03.2008
Albatrosses, yellow-eyed penguins and a castle
The Otago Peninsula is on every tour’s and tourist’s itinerary, because it offers accessible wildlife watching and scenic view behind every turn of its windy road. So here we go… Heading towards the tip of the peninsula, our first stop was Larnoch Castle, the only castle in New Zealand. The history of this extravagant place is intriguing: built by William Larnach in 1871, it has seen it all! The splendour of its early days as well as the family’s misfortune, which ended in betrayal and William’s suicide... It was eventually...[more] Category: New Zealand
22.03.2008
The Catlins: finally catching the vibes
The morning we left Dunedin, we spontaneously decided to change plans. Instead of going north to do some cycling on the Otega Rail Trail, we went south. It was the accounts of two people that convinced us the Catlins cannot be missed. What a lucky decision! This region at the southernmost part of New Zealand is a mix of deserted sweeping beaches that go on and on and on, a rugged coastline, formidable cliffs, watchful lighthouses, rivers, lakes, dense forests and rolling hills in all shades of green dotted with zillions of grazing...[more] Category: New Zealand
23.03.2008
Working our way along the south coast
Before we reached our last overnight stop in the south, Colac Bay, we stocked up at a huge supermarket in Invergarcill. We mention this, because it was an experience in itself. After seeing only beauty for the last few days, we now felt like being on a different planet when shopping in this commercial hub of 50.000 souls. To put it mildly, the city has a rough edge that can be seen in people’s appearance! Continuing our trip along the south coast, we stopped at Curio Bay and very scenic Porpoise Bay surrounded by steep cliffs and a...[more] Category: New Zealand
24.03.2008
Spectacular Milford Sound
In Te Anau, the gateway to the Milford Sound, we stayed at Rosie’s Homestay (one of the highest rated BBH), which we only can highly recommend. The first afternoon, we just went on a two hours walk around Lake Te Anau to Brod Bay to move our lazy bones after spending hours and hours in the car. The owner of Rosie’s suggested taking the 10:00 am cruise the next day and this was the thing to do. There is a 09:00 am tour for those who absolutely want the fjord to themselves, but at the end of March the sun is too low at that time in...[more] Category: New Zealand
26.03.2008
Overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound
If the name Doubtful Sound seems weird: Captain Cook wisely refused to sail into the sound, since there seemed to be no easterly winds to take the boat back out again. He thus named it Doubtful Harbour. The Doubtful Sound, at the very heart of Fjordland, is absolutely massive and to do an overnight cruise was the wisest decision ever! We find it difficult to describe this experience because this trip was simply overwhelming. Every second of it was exciting, fascinating and informative, thanks to the nature guide on board, who...[more] Category: New Zealand
26.03.2008
Energy, environment and economic interests
The West Arm of Doubtful Sound is also the location of an underground power station that was built in the late 1960s to supply energy for an aluminium smelter (!) near Invercargill. The idea behind the project was to use the 167 meter difference in altitude between Lake Manapouri and Deep Cove near the ocean. All that was needed for this project was a tunnel dug through the mountain to allow the water drop down these 167 meters to drive turbines. The project was heavily opposed then because the initial plan was to raise the water...[more] Category: New Zealand
27.03.2008
Two hours in Queenstown
From what we had heard and read about this small town, it was clear to us that a very short stopover would do, just to see for ourselves what New Zealand’s adrenaline-activity capital was all about... Queenstown’s scenic backdrop is the majestic Remarkable Mountains and Lake Wakatipu. Around these has evolved a mammoth number of adventure pursuits: skydiving, bungy jumping, white water rafting, river surfing, white water sledging, canyoning, paragliding, skiing, mountain biking, mountain climbing, and what not! It seems the whole...[more] Category: New Zealand
28.03.2008
Staying on the Kane farm in Wanaka
How did we end up staying on a farm with the loveliest family? Way back, when we travelled through Bolivia, we met Julie Kane from New Zealand. She was on that same horror flight to Rurrenabaque at Bolivia’s Amazon basin, which took two attempts and two days to get us there. After a few months, an eMail invited her Bolivian travel companions to visit her and / or to stay at her parents’ farm near Wanaka. There, we spent three very relaxing days with her wonderful parents Colin and Pam, who hosted us in their big, comfortable house...[more] Category: New Zealand
29.03.2008
New Zealand farming news
Among the many interesting things we learned about farming, one blew our mind: New Zealand farmers do not receive any subsidies from their government anymore. Needless to say that they are not happy that these eventually ran out, but for us it was the living proof that the criticism of the European Union’s farming policy is more than justified. Citizens of the European Union indeed finance overproduction with hundreds of billions of Euros. The consequences are appalling: crops being destroyed, fields being left uncultivated or cheap...[more] Category: New Zealand
30.03.2008
Driving up the West Coast
Leaving Wanaka behind, we travelled straight up the West Coast enjoying the very scenic route. First, the road follows the shore of Lake Hawea, then turns and embraces the northern shore of Lake Wanaka. The steep slopes of mountains bordering these lakes all show the typical “furrows” carved by the glaciers. After crossing Haast Pass, the vegetation turned greener and greener with temperate rain forest lining the road. For long stretches, there is dense rainforest to the right and dunes and ocean to the left. There would have been...[more] Category: New Zealand
31.03.2008
Pancakes Rocks and Blowholes in Punakaiki
On our way up the west coast, Hokitika, New Zealand’s jade capital, was a must stop-over. Carefree, we toured the shops because having a car makes souvenir hunting so much more irresistible. What will we do with the ever growing box of artwork, jewellery and knickknacks? The latest idea was sending it from Hong Kong to Bangkok, our very last stop before going home, because the costs for sending such a heavy parcel to Europe are frightening. Our last destination on the west coast was Punakaiki, famous for its Pancake Rocks and...[more] Category: New Zealand
01.04.2008
Golden Bay & Abel Tasman National Park
The amazing scenery of Golden Bay was matched by our home for two nights, “The Innlet”, a hostel that we highly recommend. It offers different types of accommodation and this time we treated ourselves to a self-contained unit with a bedroom, living-room / kitchen and bathroom, all together for 80 NZ Dollar a night. Only 10 meters across the lawn is the main house with double rooms, dorms, the busy communal kitchen and a living room to socialise if we chose. There is a large lawn with deckchairs to relax, a hot spa down near the...[more] Category: New Zealand
02.04.2008
Frolicking seal pups on breathtaking Wharariki Beach
Wharariki Beach is something you need to see to believe it. We were totally unprepared for this visual feast, since we had planned to go the opposite way, out to Farewell Spit. This peninsula, a sea of sand dunes, is a popular breeding ground for seabirds and thus can only be accessed with a tour. Luckily we were advised against this six hour trip in an eco-bus (!) that goes all the way to the tip of the peninsula with two little stops in between. So instead, we went to discover the area west of the peninsula on foot, which is so...[more] Category: New Zealand
03.04.2008
Taking a brief holiday in Nelson
We toured the whole South Island in three and a half week and managed to explore all the highlights thoroughly, which meant spending long hours in the car in between - Something every traveller to New Zealand had predicted. Since this country was the first destination we had not prepared a great deal, this had to be done while in the car or reading at night before or after writing our entries for the website. This way, our days became even busier than they had been in Latin America. They still included the usual routine: finding a...[more] Category: New Zealand
04.04.2008
Darwin’s Nightmare
The movie “Darwin’s Nightmare” dealt with the heavy consequences the introduction of the Nile Perch had on Lake Victoria in Tanzania and eventually on the people of the area. During our trip, we repeatedly have heard about the problems arising from introducing animals and plants not native to a region or country. Usually guides, who conduct tours through a bird sanctuary or nature reserve, bring this issue to the attention of the visiting overseas tourists. In Patagonia and especially Tierra del Fuego, we saw with our own eyes what...[more] Category: New Zealand
08.04.2008
Home far away from home in the Marlborough Sounds
Of course lots of hostels make this slogan part of their promotion, but here at the Hopewell it is a fact. There is no better place to spend a rainy day on a comfy coach in front of a wood fired stove with a well-groomed cat curled up in your lap. We came here to experience what it is like to stay in the very BBH hostel that had received the best rating in the year 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006 and 2007, a mere 97 to 98%, year permitting. So we travelled the windy road along the shores of Kenepuro Sound, one of the many sounds within the...[more] Category: New Zealand
10.04.2008
Political hot spot - Wellington
Visiting New Zealand’s capital turned into a very special experience, for various reasons! First of all, we were invited to stay with Julie and Rob, where we enjoyed each others companies over great food, first class New Zealand wine and discussions touching everything from farming to world politics. We also learned a great deal about New Zealand politics from them. We had met Julie in Bolivia about 6 months ago and kept in touch. She also arranged for us to stay with her parents on a farm in Wanaka, for us city people this was an...[more] Category: New Zealand
11.04.2008
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Established in 1887, Tangariro National Park was New Zealand’s first national park. It is also one of the most active volcanic areas in the world, the last eruption dating back no later than 1996! Mount Ruapehu, the highest of the three volcanoes of the area with 2.797 meters, is the most active one. But Mount Tongariro, 1.967 meters and Mount Ngauruhoe, the youngest one, 2.287 meters, are also still active. The Tongariro Northern Circuit, a three days walk, is classified as one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. Many ambitious hikers...[more] Category: New Zealand
12.04.2008
In the Land of Mordor where the Shadows lie
“In the Land of Mordor where the Shadows lie. One Ring to rule them all, One Ring to find them, One Ring to bring them all and in the darkness bind them.” (JRR Tolkien, Lord of the Rings). It was not only pure patriotism that brought Peter Jackson to film his much acclaimed, many Oscars-winning Lord of the Rings Trilogy - Fellowship of the Ring, The Two Towers & The Return of the King - in New Zealand. Hardly in another country would he have found the diversity of spectacular landscapes to realize this film! True, New Zealand...[more] Category: New Zealand
13.04.2008
Gilles - Try it once!
New Zealand is THE country to try some adrenaline-pumping activities, like bungy jumping, jetboating, white-water rafting, paragliding or … skydiving! Heidi simply rejected any of these activities, but I really wanted to experience skydiving, so she offered to invite me to a jump for my birthday. My first attempt in Wanaka was shattered due to bad weather so I tried my luck in Taupo, just showing up at the airport on the way to Rotorua. “Cool, you are on the next flight, wait two minutes and we start the briefing”. Skydiving?...[more] Category: New Zealand
15.04.2008
Rotorua - The Sulphur City
In case you wonder where this nickname comes from, wander through the street of this small town and the odour of rotten eggs says it all. This is geothermal country with exploding geysers, bubbling mud pools and the omnipresent smell of sulphur. The potential of this thermal wonderland was recognized from early on. Tourists travelled here to marvel at the geothermal landscape as early as the late 19th century and spas were built around 1902, promising cure from gout and rheumatism. Unfortunately, fall finally caught up with us...[more] Category: New Zealand
16.04.2008
Hangi & Haka at a Maori Village
The second attraction that makes people come to Rotorua is a strong presence of Maori culture, mostly manifested in over-commercialised evening shows. There, tourists from “different tribes” eat Hangi, food cooked on hot stones in pits dug in the ground and watch various dances. The more famous ones are the “Poi”, where female dancers swing ball tied to the end of a cord and the “Haka”, a dramatic dance with a lot of chanting, facial movements and tongue poking. Of course, tourists are asked to join in some Maori singing and a...[more] Category: New Zealand
17.04.2008
Rock The Boat - Overnight cruise in the Bay of Islands
Famed for its stunning coastal scenery, this place with its 144 islands MUST be explored by boat. So we booked an overnight cruise from Rotorua, where we were grounded due to torrential rainfall for two consecutive days, just keeping our fingers crossed that the weather would improve or be different up north. Our boat, the Rock, has a very interesting history - it used to be a car ferry and was transformed into a very comfortable cruise boat to sleep 36 passengers. Speaking of history - The Bay of Islands was the site of the first...[more] Category: New Zealand
18.04.2008
Last exit: Auckland
Auckland is New Zealand’s biggest and culturally most diverse city: When walking through the centre, it seems like strolling through Hong Kong or Tokyo: 20 % of Auckland’s population comes from Asia. Many of them come here to study or learn English, but most are first or second generation New Zealanders. After 6 weeks in New Zealand, we realized that it is not worth spending much time in cities and so we only spent two days there, before flying to Hong Kong. This was just enough to visit the city’s highlights: take the ferry to...[more] Category: New Zealand
19.04.2008
New Zealand - Budget
We spent almost 6 weeks in New Zealand, four on the South Island and a little less than two on the North Island. New Zealand is not a budget destination, nevertheless, we managed to spend 59 Euros per person per day, less than what we had budgeted. This is rather unexpected! How comes we did not spend much more? First, accommodation is very cheap for a Western country! The type of lodgings labelled “Backpacker” and the BBH association especially offers great value accommodation. Standards can be very different but the rating in the...[more] Category: New Zealand, Budget
21.04.2008
New Zealand - Summary
Of the 40 days in New Zealand, we spent 4 weeks on the South Island and a little less than two weeks on the North Island. Initially New Zealand was not one of our top 10 destinations, but since everyone was sooo enthusiastic about this country, we felt we should decide for ourselves. Our arrival was rather unpleasant as described in our first New Zealand entry on this website and it took almost a week until we caught the New Zealand fever. To be honest, it is almost impossible to resist the spectacular scenery: the green pastures...[more] Category: New Zealand, Summaries
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