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29.04.2008
Tour de force: Macau - Guangzhou - Guilin - Yangshuo
We decided to describe his first stretch of our trip in “China proper” in great detail, simply to show how easy it is to travel in an environment where communication is rather difficult. It took us about 23 hours to cover the approx. 750 kilometres between Macau and Yangshuo, but it was hardly tiring or boring. The public bus in Macau took us to the border at “Portas de Cerco” where we crossed into Mainland China together with zillions of gamblers who had spent the weekend in Macau. Despite the big crowd things moved smoothly. Once...[more] Category: China
29.04.2008
Yangshuo - Out worldly in more than one way
What makes this area a prime tourist location are the amazing rock formations that are especially spectacular to watch from the Li or Yulong River. They are best described as a never ending cascade of pointed hills covered with lush green vegetation, often coming in bizarre shapes given names like Moon Hill, Nine Horse Fresco Hill... One range follows the other, the ones further away mysteriously disappearing in the haze, typical for this area near two rivers. It reminded us a lot of Halong Bay in Vietnam, without the ocean of...[more] Category: China
30.04.2008
Cycling along the Yulong River & cruising the Li River
One of the best ways to see the extraordinary scenery is riding a bike along the Yuling River. Here tourism is presently finding its way into the local farmer communities along the river. This area is undergoing a major transition: you see farmers working their rice paddies or taking their animals home in the evening, while others are building bamboo rafts or taking tourists down the river on these floating devices. Some people try to sell conic hats or fruits and most farmers along the river have added a few floors onto their modest...[more] Category: China
30.04.2008
East meets West
Since we first entered China, we observed a fascination of Chinese tourists with Western tourists and their children in particular. During a boat ride on the Li River, there was an American family with small boys on board. Everybody tried to hold them, pat them, have them sit on their lap in the overcrowded bus from Xingpin back to Yangshuo. Or at least have their photo taken together with the kids! This curiosity extends to western tourists in general. On West Street, we often watched young Chinese women, who usually come here with...[more] Category: China
01.05.2008
Medical care in China
Since Heidi suffered from a persistent cold, she decided to see a doctor in Yangshuo. Accompanied by Sally, a young lady who works at our hotel, she headed for the local hospital. Unlike many people in Yangshuo, nobody spoke a word of English there! Her experience at this provincial hospital made us curious and we dug a bit deeper to learn more about health care in China. Standard procedure in a Chinese hospital is to pay beforehand for every service. To see a specialist is 0.2 Euro. Afterwards, you most likely end up at the lab to...[more] Category: China
02.05.2008
Yangshuo’s other highlights
One morning we joined a lesson at Yangshuo Cooking School, run by an energetic young lady with a good sense of humor. The class started with a trip to the local market where our little group was introduced to ingredients typically used in Chinese cuisine. The “school” is located in the country side in the midst of rice paddies. The five dishes we produced under the observant eye of our teacher were really delicious. We even mastered the famous beer fish, a regional specialty. To be quite honest, the beer fish we cooked was the best...[more] Category: China
03.05.2008
Mass tourism at its fullest: the rice terraces of Ping’An
We were well aware that visiting a main tourist attraction in China during the May 1st holiday week would not be a lonely affair! Nevertheless, what we experienced in the tiny village of Ping’An was beyond our wildest imaginations. The area is famous for its extensive and elaborately sculptured rice terraces, a truly magnificent place. BUT! Since it caters mainly to Chinese tour groups coming up for the day from Guilin or Yangshuo, the place turns into a zoo during the busy holiday season. Not that Ping’An is a village just off a...[more] Category: China
05.05.2008
Minority villages near Sanjiang
After the madness of Ping’An, it was such a relief to find Ma’an, famous for its Chengyang Wind and Rain Bridge, a quiet relaxed place. The about 100 year old bridge was built by the villagers only using wood, no nails and is covered by what looks like a cascade of roofs. The rice paddies next to the river are irrigated by large squeaking waterwheels. The 5 hour bus trip from Ping’an was just smooth, despite having to take three different buses. It seemed like hop on, hop off with buses just waiting for us. The new Yang’s Guesthouse...[more] Category: China
07.05.2008
Moving north to Sichuan
From Ping’An, we zipped to Guilin by bus. From there we continued by plane to Chengdu, the provincial capital of Sichuan. Airline tickets bought online are indeed often so discounted that they are cheaper than a soft sleeper on the train! After several days in rural China, we actually enjoyed the center of Guilin, the pedestrian area with chic shops, great restaurants, a romantic river walk and only a mild version of touting. The Backstreet Youth Hostel turned out to be a fantastic choice, with a perfect location, nice and cheap...[more] Category: China
08.05.2008
Chengdu - Pandas, temples and Chinese opera
No tourist leaves this city without visiting the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, with its 50 giant and red pandas. May is the end of the “falling in love period”, so in September we would have seen the very young ones. Nevertheless, they are not a pretty sight right after they are born. It has all been said, but we cannot help it. These wooly creatures are just sooooo cute and lovable! They are the pride of every zoo and there is reason for this, except the fact that they are so rare and close to extinction. The way they munch...[more] Category: China
09.05.2008
Emei Shan - The holy mountain
Emai Shan is one of China’s four famous Buddhist mountains and thus the destination for zillions of Chinese tourists and pilgrims. Not that we could distinguish who was making its way up or down Emai Shan for what purpose, but what was so overwhelming was the sheer number of people on a normal weekday in the low season. There are many ways to conquer the summit at 3.099 meters… Take the bus and cable both ways. This can be done in high-heels, which some ladies actually did. One thing that we could not get over were the many Chinese...[more] Category: China
10.05.2008
Leshan - The biggest Buddha
Who would not like to see the tallest Buddha in the world sculptured into a cliff overlooking the river? So naturally, we stopped in Leshan, where we checked into the “Post and Telecommunication Hotel”. If the name is a turn off - maybe the nearby post office is to blame - the rooms are super and quiet, but it lacks all the facilities of a traveler hostel. The price included a Chinese breakfast which was rice porridge and pickled, spicy vegetable. We really tried…Nevertheless, the best place to stay in Leshan! Although it must have...[more] Category: China
11.05.2008
Back in Sim’s Cozy Garden Guesthouse in Chengdu
One reason we stopped again in Chengdu was this incredible hostel, one of the best we have stayed during our 10 month travel. Comfortable, squeaky clean and quiet rooms with AC, TV & DVD player, two big and airy inner court yards, a competent travel desk, a big terrace to enjoy the superb food or a late night drink and lots of cozy communal space, are just a few features that make this place irresistible. For us, two adorable very young cats, an extensive book exchange, the free DVD library and WiFi in the whole building made it even...[more] Category: China
12.05.2008
China - The human factor
Since we spent more than five days in this city on and off we strayed to all kinds of places. Our favorite was People’s Park. Its entrance is guarded by the statue of a ferocious looking soldier pointing his gun at the people’s enemies? The inside of the park is very peaceful with lots of elderly people joining Tai Chi groups or just dance away, alone with a partner, all to the same music. When we stopped at a corner, our map wide open, since we could not find the bus stop to take us back to our hostel, an elderly man approached us...[more] Category: China
12.05.2008
Feeling 7.8 on the Richter scale!
We were in Chengdu / Sichuan, 92 kilometres from the epicentre when the earthquake hit with full force Monday afternoon at 02:30 pm, with an incredible strength of 7.8 on the Richter Scale (max. is 9.0). We needed a few seconds to realize what was happening. We then rushed into a doorway to look for shelter. What followed were probably the longest two minutes of our life. The building was shaking like mad, creaking and plaster fell from the walls. We had a full view of another building: it was swaying violently. We never thought...[more] Category: China
13.05.2008
Tuesday, May 13th - No way out?
We had booked a flight from Chengdu, Sichuan to Lijiang, Yunnan, before the earthquake hit, but now, whether you have a ticket or not makes very little difference, there are just not enough flights. Not to mention that all train stations are closed until further notice and that busses are just totally overbooked! We went to the airport although fellow travelers warned us it was chaotic, a mild understatement, as it turned out! People were literally camping out here. There must have been thousands, eating, sleeping, playing cards,...[more] Category: China
14.05.2008
Wednesday, May 14th - A long wait for going to Lijiang
After our flight Chengdu - Lijiang for Tuesday was canceled, we looked at alternatives. Unfortunately, none seemed really practical: we thought about taking a bus to Chongqing and fly from there, but it would have meant a 5 hour bus drive, not being sure when and especially if we were able to get tickets. The other option was of course to go back to the airport the next day. In the morning, we checked online the flight status of all planes leaving. It looked like the airport was slowly resuming a normal activity, with planes delayed...[more] Category: China
15.05.2008
Tourist magnet Lijiang
The Old Town of Lijiang is Yunnan’s number one tourist destination, famous for its Naxi architecture. The Naxi are the prominent ethnic group in the area with a very interesting history and a religion that shows their Tibetan ties. The city’s cobble-stone streets are lined with houses built in traditional Naxi style. These buildings have been tastefully restored and together with the red lantern give this area an irresistible romantic charm. The many small canals that crisscross Old Town even manage to emit a certain peacefulness,...[more] Category: China
16.05.2008
Wenbi Monastery & Baisha
Our visit of Wenbi Monastery 10 kilometers south of Lijiang was one of the highlights of this trip through Southwest China. We followed the advice of our host who warned us against visiting Jade Peak Monastery, which is packed with Chinese tour groups. He also organized our transport, because it would have been even very difficult to reach the village at the foot of the mountain by public transport, not talking about the steep road up to the monastery. Wenbi is a “real” monastery with very strong Tibetan features, high up on a...[more] Category: China
16.05.2008
Rip off at Wenchu Temple
Depending on which way you choose to walk up to the “Looking at the Past Pavilion”, you may pass Wenchu Temple. There, we were taken for a ride, big time! Young English speaking ladies in traditional dresses usher you into the temple where we met the “Taoist Master”. He asked for our Chinese signs and made us turn a small horn on large map of all Chinese signs. This round map was surrounded by small stacks of paper. Wherever the horn pointed, that piece of paper was yours. When we were asked to pay 20 Yuan for each slip, we thought...[more] Category: China
17.05.2008
A so very Chinese travel experience
Another entertaining bus ride took us from Lijiang to Dali. Of course, as usually we were the only foreigners on the bus. We left Lijiang in the morning and for the next three hours passed little communities or rural areas with people working in rice fields. Our Chinese co-travelers always found a reason to loudly, repeat loudly, discuss various issues. The card games going on around us repeatedly seemed to turn into a veritable fight, but when we turned our heads, everybody was smiling at us. Of course, if we had any question,...[more] Category: China
18.05.2008
Disappointing Dali
Dali’s Old Town is surrounded by high walls, its four big gates leading to the city center at the “Point of the four directions of the wind”. Different to Lijiang, “real” people live here, but the architecture is nowhere as remarkable. Basically, there is a main drag with souvenir shops where Chinese tourists are shown around by local tour guides dressed in Bai costumes. Our lack of enthusiasm for this place may also have to do with the fact that it rained, rained, rained… Luckily, we found a very comfortable place to stay, the MCA...[more] Category: China
20.05.2008
China is mourning
Sunday evening the mood on Chinese TV changed significantly, quiet classical music, speakers addressed an audience, many of them sobbing. It seemed the people were being prepared for the sad truth that for the victims buried in the rubble, there was little hope. On Monday May 19th at 14:28, exactly a week after the Wenchuan earthquake, sirens announced a three minute nationwide silence. We had just stepped off the bus in Kunming when we witnessed this very touching moment. People stood still with their heads lowered, often the...[more] Category: China
20.05.2008
Mastering language barriers
When we arrived in Kunming, after a five hour bus ride from Dali, Gilles finally decided to go to the hospital because he had had an upset stomach for more than one week. Needless to say that this was some kind of an adventure in a place where not a single person spoke more than two or three words of English! After running around for about one hour, going from one desk to the next queue to the next information center, where embarrassed nurses laughed but could not help, he finally managed to pay the registration fee and find the room...[more] Category: China
21.05.2008
On the way to the rice terraces of Yuanyang
Squashed in our narrow seats riding the bus for almost 8 hours from Kunming to Yuanyang, we often asked ourselves if this trip was worth the trouble. The air was stuffy and worst, some passengers smoked. When the first person was lighting a cigarette, Gilles immediately went up front to the driver to complain. However, when he saw that the driver was smoking as well and that no “No smoking” sign could be seen, he gave in. The trip took us along farmland where rice, tobacco and corn are grown. Often we passed long stretches plastered...[more] Category: China
22.05.2008
A truly magical place
At 05:00 am, we set off and arrived at the village of Duoyishu, long before the sun peeked around the mountain edge. We listened to the village coming to life and gasped at the unreal scenery, an enormous area of terraces carved from the mountain slopes, still sitting there in the semi-darkness. Even the chilly temperatures could not distract us from this most impressive scenery. It was just the six of us enjoying this magic awakening. For two hours, we watched the ever changing light and took photo after photo. Later five (!)...[more] Category: China
22.05.2008
Different ways to explore China
Our fellow travelers in Yuanyang were, as usually, most interesting! Martin has traveled to China 11 times since 1992 (!) and knows every corner of Northwest & Southwest of China. He had lots to tell about how the country has transformed in a positive way. Especially the attitude towards foreigners has changed dramatically, reflecting the official government policy. The Swiss ladies, Murielle & Camille, studied near Shanghai and spoke Chinese really well, which came in handy in a place where nobody masters the English language yet....[more] Category: China
24.05.2008
Xishuangbanna - The southwestern most part of China
When we visited Yuanyang, we were rather close to Jinghong, the capital of the Xishuangbanna province. However, the bus trip would have taken two full days on very bumpy roads. So we took the bus back to Kunming and flew the 40 minutes from there to Jinghong, where we were in for another surprise. We simply loved this place! We expected a dull provincial town, but we found everything you may want. It has the infrastructure of a tourist town, but it is not cramped like Lijiang or Yuangshuo, where Chinese tour groups all move around a...[more] Category: China
25.05.2008
Eating out in China
Eating was heaven! Even though we never consulted the Lonely Plant when it came to choosing restaurants in the last 10 months, because the places recommended are always far more expensive, in China we have come to appreciate those recommendations: the places mentioned in the guide usually have an English menu! Do we sound like loosing our sense of adventure? To be frank, pointing at other people’s dishes or at veggies & meat displayed in restaurants is fun for a while, but it got boring because we always played it safe in such...[more] Category: China
26.05.2008
China - Budget
China’s Southwest is unbelievably cheap to travel for western tourists: even though we significantly upgraded our standard of living and traveling, no longer really taking care of what we spent, we spent about 35 Euros a person per day. This could have been cut by at least one third, of course if we wanted to! On average we spent 11 Euros per night on accommodation for a nice double room with private bath. A bargain! Chinese food is tasty and diverse, but due to the language barrier, we surely only tasted a very small range of...[more] Category: China, Budget
30.05.2008
China - Summary
We traveled the 30 days our visa permitted throughout China's southwestern provinces: Guangxi, Sichuan and Yunnan. This was definitely not enough! Nevertheless, we now know it can be easily done without a common language. This introduction to China also was an immense eye opener and some of the negative concepts we had of this country we corrected or simply vanished! What was so different from the image we had and from what we actually expected? When thinking about China, which aspects will stay in our memories? • Chinese people...[more] Category: China, Summaries
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